Labrador is the largest and northernmost geographical region in Atlantic Canada, part of the province of Newfoundland.
Though 71 percent of the province’s land mass, it only has 8 percent of its population, approximately 30,000. That was a bit of a stunning statistic when we first heard it – we live in a village in Ontario and, coupled with the nearest town to us, our population exceeds that of Labrador.
At times, our drive was on the loneliest road in the world with still only half of the distance paved – there are about 600 kilometres of gravel road remaining. I refer to it as gravel but that is not completely accurate. If the truth be known, gravel is paradise; if it’s thick and level the ride is smooth and pothole-free.
You have to be careful you don’t surf right off the road into the bush but kilometre for kilometre it is far preferable to the minefield of potholes that is its hard-packed dirt cousin.
The Trans-Labrador Highway is a focused network of remote roads cutting through unparalleled wilderness. Fuel is available in 250 kilometre increments. There’s off the beaten path; then there’s this place.
The possibility of mechanical breakdowns in the middle of nowhere and seasonal persistent bloodsucking insects, bone-chilling rain and snow along with moose hellbent on auto suicide make an expedition all that much more exciting. Driving its full length of over 1,200 kilometres is truly a Great Canadian Road Trip.
Outside a few of the larger towns there is no mobile phone signal, not even for 911 emergency calls. Turn your radio on; you won’t even hear static. For the sake of safety the Newfoundland government has made a free-loan satellite phone available to travellers.
We picked ours up in Wabush and dropped it off in L’Anse au Clair ten days later. The phones are limited in capability but are connected directly to the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary (RCMP) if you do need assistance.
We knew this was going to be a challenge for us and it was going to be tough on our vehicle. We were fortunate in that we owned two vehicles, neither of which was in great shape and both somewhat disposable.
We opted to take the 2005 rusty old van with nearly 300,000 kilometres on it and the Check Engine light burning brightly. It had more room especially if we got stranded and had to sleep in it. Many would back off at this point feeling it was not worth the risk but I knew it would be extremely rewarding if we did make it.
So why go to Labrador? For the adventure and pure joy of driving across one of the last frontiers in North America; it’s the ultimate road trip. A journey through Labrador will put you in touch with the natural beauty of the landscape. It is one of the few places left where you can enjoy true wilderness – surrounded by echoes of the past.
On our first day in Labrador the drive was gorgeous; so peaceful and relaxing. We drove for over an hour and never saw another car and I loved every second of solitude.
We stopped for lunch at a tiny lake surrounded by pines and tamaracks and the visual beauty quickly took second place as I stepped out of the van and was enveloped by a wonderful silence; truly not a sound to be heard. That is what I will remember most about Labrador.
I should have known when I stepped outside the following morning that I was in for a different early October day than I’m used to. It was chilly, probably 20 below with the wind chill. By the time we reached the highway it was snowing. It gets late early out here.
Once we hit the gravel it was hell on wheels; about 300 kilometres of potholes. If you listen to my Dictaphone you’ll hear, “It’s not a road, it’s just a 300 kilometre pothole – you can’t drive three feet without driving through a pothole.” Shake, rattle and roll. The rust was breaking away and bits of metal were falling off. Go van go.
The Metis Trail (Highway 516) was named after the local aboriginal population, descended from Inuit and Settler ancestors. It’s a beautiful road that remains unpaved giving it more charm than it would possess otherwise.
It culminates in the village of Cartwright, established by eighteenth century trader and explorer Captain George Cartwright. The village is the farthest north you can drive in Labrador – reason enough to go there.
To summarize Labrador in just a few words…we came to see what most people never get a chance to see and in so doing were rewarded with adventure and solitude.
At times we felt like the only ones on Earth. It slowed us down and made us think of the first people to settle in Labrador, the Innu, the Inuit and the Metis. In our own little way we had joined them.
It truly was a Great Canadian Road Trip. We had TV and internet but were not inundated with all the bad news - maybe we just chose not to look at it. That alone made it worth getting away. On the road in Labrador we were often the only car for kilometres and sometimes hours.
Labrador is one of Canada's few remaining wildernesses and we are blessed to have seen it in that state. As the road is improved and we are treated to "progress" all that will disappear.
We truly did and saw things that few people get to and that made our month special. We made it! Nothing unusual but the fact that the van did it is nothing short of miraculous.
My love for the road trip experience is often matched by my disappointment that it has come to an end but I am rewarded by being left with great photos, videos and memories and most important of all the knowledge that this will not be the last one.
As long as I can get in and out of a vehicle I’ll continue to be “that road trip guy”. This one took us 7,725 kilometres through a beautiful part of Canada – and the 'check engine' light is still on.
Eric Whitehead has been on the road travelling for almost 60 years, so it was only natural when he retired that he became a travel writer. He has written 12 books to date, 11 of them about his travels. For more information, visit his website and blog.
